I have a problem.

It’s the worst sort of problem because it’s not a real problem.

I imagine most day dreamers and travelers and story lovers have the same sorts of problems that I encounter from time to time. My mind can wander around the edges of my reality. I can get lost in my dreams. Caught in a web of wants. Forks in the road of my ceaseless thoughts lead me to yearn for places and things I never I wanted. It makes me reach for things that go against the grain.

Every time I travel to a new country and city these same playful thoughts seem to arise from within:

Could I live here?

I see the houses and sidewalks and parks and stores and I wonder if I could make it there. Could I raise a family there? Could I bear the weather? The language? The food? The distance from the US? Could I afford it? What are the immigration requirements? Will they even let me live here whether I want to or not?

This is how it starts. Then, as I get to know the place, if the place is enjoyable, I begin to say: I want to live here one day.

It makes for good day dreaming. And man, Japan probably tops the list for this sort of daydreaming. The problem I described is my current want for Japan. A place that had always piqued my interest since I was a child watching anime shows like Speed Racer and playing Nintendo. As a kid, I knew all the cool stuff came from Japan. Sega, Gameboy, Playstation, Sony–not that I owned all of those things, but they were big deals to a kid in the late 80’s and 90’s. The Final Fantasy games I’d play made me wonder about its creators and writers. Dragonball, Pokemon, Akira, Miyao Hiyazaki, Robotech. All of those things launched me on a path to where science fiction and fantasy are my favorite genres to this day.

As a teenager I would read endlessly about the battles the United States fought in the Pacific against Japan. I would build models of the Zero fighter plane. How could such a small island country nearly overtake the entirety of Eastern Asia? I would ask. Of all the countries in the world, the greatest surprise military attack in America’s history came from this country. Just like other former adversarial countries to the US like Germany and Russia capture my attention and fascination, so too does Japan.

Later, as a twenty something traveler, Japan fulfilled its promise to me. Beer vending machines. Ramen. Hidden one room whiskey bars high up in a high-rises in Shibuya. Robotic toilets. Restaurant vending machines for ordering and doorbells for service. Neon lit clubs underground and tucked into twisting alleyways. Bathhouses. Hefty language barriers. Cooking my own food sitting cross-legged on the floor. Since leaving Japan on my first visit, some of my favorite philosophy I consume comes from Japan, mainly the Zen school of thought of Buddhism. As a carpenter, some of the most coveted finish tools I would use came from Japan.

It’s hard for me to escape the fact that Japan has influenced a bit of my life. How can a small country so far away with an exotic and difficult language have such impact on me?

And even now, as a 41 year old family man who’s two years out from potential retirement, Japan is again grabbing me. I know this rush of emotion will fade over time–it usually does. Mexico, Germany and Spain all had a similar effect of me after visiting. But I’ll relish and dwell in these emotions that Japan has left on me. It’s fresh on my mind after all, Japan has consumed me in a way, or maybe I’ve consumed Japan. Either way I find myself missing being in that country and can’t help but daydream about a potential life there.

I just love countries that have large cities that appear so safe and clean. It’s a drastic shift from the cities here in the Bay Area that I know well. Most everyone follows the rules in Japan. A great example are crowds waiting to cross the street. If the crosswalk light is red nobody crosses, even if the streets are dead empty for as far as the eye can see; everyone waits for the green light. Stores don’t have to cage up their products to keep thieves from stealing. Nobody chains up their bikes on the sides of the road anyone can just pick up a bike and take it (though they do use small wheel locks) but nobody does. The packed metros are silent, no loud videos being played on phones, no weirdos. Guns are illegal. I can take a large backpack into a packed stadium. Tipping is considered rude…..I could drone on.

Beyond my fresh tourist rose colored glasses, the culture does have problems. Particularly a toxic work culture. The suicide rates are some of the highest in the world due the long work hours and social isolation this feeds. The society can be closed off to foreigners wanting to integrate. No place is perfect. For a person near early retirement, the work culture is something I wouldn’t need to worry about if the wind takes me to Japan. The lack of good or easy visas for a non-working family is what would stop me from being able to move there.

I’ve been back home a week now and I’m realizing this trip has done more for me than any trip abroad has in a long, long time. This recent visit has reawakened what I knew existed from my first visit to Japan back in 2011. I’m still digesting my experience. There’s a sort of Japan Blues I think I’m experiencing. A come down from the assault on my senses and thoughts. I’m sad I’m not there anymore. I miss it dearly.

I want Japan and I can’t have it.

The Trip

We went to four cities: Kyoto, Kinosaki, Osaka, and Tokyo. All travel was done by train. We each had one backpack, which kept things light and easy to travel on planes, trains, metros, taxi, and foot. We slept on the floor for the two weeks we were out there. Prices were a bit inflated due to a few reasons, namely Spring Break and Sakura Season. There certainly cheaper times to go if you can miss this window.

Our flight roundtrip from San Francisco to Tokyo was through the budget airline Zip Air. I did not use any travel points to get a deal on airlines this trip. United or any of their affiliates didn’t have the best deals for my points. So this vacation’s strategy was to simply acquire more points through big purchases–being as frugal as possible, of course. After this trip, my Chase Sapphire and Hilton Surpass are both brimming with points for the next trip.

Our flight left SFO airport at 9:30pm on a Thursday and arrived in Tokyo at 8PM on a Friday.

Zip Airlines- 4 roundtrip tickets – $5,032

This was my first time using Zip Air. I’d never heard of them, but plenty of my co-workers had. They are like the Ryan Air of the Pacific. I bought my meals for the flight when I purchased tickets. If I remember right, the flight itself was around ~$4500, then with taxes, choosing seat locations, and one meal a piece, it brought the total up to $5k.

I had no problems with the airline. They were efficient. The plane was new. There’s no ‘entertainment’ screens for movies, simply a device holder. So if movies are your thing on flights, you just need to ensure that you have everything dowloaded before takeoff. This might have been a killer when my kids were younger to keep them entertained, but they are both pretty self sufficient now and had a few movies on their pads. Nothing is free on the flight. Not even water. I would use them again, as they are half the price of any other direct flight airline coming from SFO.

Kyoto– 3 days $593

We stood in a one room flat above a small cafe. The location was great as it allowed us a one minute walk to Kiyomizu Temple and beat the crowds in the morning. The cherry blossoms were in full mode and it made for gorgeous scenery. We walked all over the city. The hills just beyond our flat were full of trails and would have been great to explore if it weren’t for the on off rain that would have made them muddy.

We hit most of the big sites. To be honest, the crowds are unreal. We were out of the house by 6am each morning, and I’m very happy we did this, because by 10am, most sites were not walkable due to crowds. The crowds were so thick that I’m sure if there were some sort of panic many people would die. It reminded me of Rome or Mexico City’s metro during rush hour, except we weren’t in a metro station but out on the streets or temples. There’s no moving at your own pace, only the pace of the mass of people…and I hated that.

There’s some revulsion to the photo taking frenzy. If everyone is taking a picture of something, I absolutely do not want to take a picture of whatever the thing is. I can’t imagine how or why so many people need a photo obscured by other people of some random object they didn’t know existed till they saw other people taking a picture of it.

I also hated being part of the mass of people. Knowing that I was contributing to this mass of frenzied tourists didn’t sit right with me. One person takes a photo, then everyone takes a photo. That’s all everyone was doing, taking photos on their phones. I wondered if smartphones and social media didn’t exist to post these photos, would any of these people be interested in seeing these temples? Would they still take so many photos? What do they do with these photos? What brought them to those temples? Probably the same thing that brought my family. These were the top things to see when researching the city. We had no idea the gravity of the tourist situation though when deciding we’d be visiting these sites. If I’d known I would have said hell no. If I could do it all again, I’d avoid these major Kyoto destinations all together. Being amid the tourist epicenter is just not worth it to me.

In talking about this over tourism (which was probably a first experience for me in all my travels), I will say that I do not think for one moment I was separate or better than any other tourist there. I contributed to it by being there. I have to imagine that this boom has made many Japanese locals richer. The other tourists were all friendly and mostly respectful to others and the places they congregated. There was just too many people in one place.

The temples or shrines weren’t that important for me to see. I would have been much happier walking through the city streets just eating and drinking as much as I could or off on some trail enjoying the river or hills. And we did do this and it was my favorite part of my visit to Kyoto. There are some nice trails alongside the Kamogawa River down near the city center. We stopped and got for from a Lawsons and ate along the riverbanks.

Overall Kyoto was a beautiful place. It felt like a postcard. I liked the mid-sized city feel. When we walked through the neighborhoods and got away from the crowds, this is when Kyoto shined for me. I would go back, but would ensure it would be off season and not to any tourist sites.

Kinosaki Onsen– 2 days $2300

A 2 hour train ride north of Kyoto lies Kinosaki Onsen in the prefecture of Toyooka. People have been visiting Kinosaki for their renowned hot springs for 1,300 years. The ride north through the countryside was magical. The train flitted between rugged mountain passes and canyons and then farms and small cities. The resort town itself was extraordinarily tiny. A small creek ran through the town and fed out into the Maruyama River.

We splurged here. Splurged big time as you can see by how much we spent in two days.

The ryoken we stood at was the luxurious Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei. We normally do not spend this kind of money on accommodations during our trips. We looked at some budget options, and we actually tried to get a smaller and cheaper room, but as a family of four with ages of my kids 11 and 7, the occupation limits for hotels are stringent in Japan. As I looked around for a place to stay, I found myself coming back to Shogetsutei. The nightly plan we bought came with dinner in a private room and breakfast buffet each day. Finally after much discussion and internal debating, I decided to pull the trigger and told myself this was a once in a life experience with the kids, might as well have a fancy excursion in Japan. It’s not like I can’t afford it.

It was a spectacular experience. Japan already has good service, but this place took service to another level. The food at the hotel was beyond anything I expected from a hotel. We received a 5 course fine dining meal each night–something I did not expect. Small kabatchi grills cooked wagyu beef and vegetables for us, we cooked hot pot seafood, were served immaculate sushi and sashimi. Soups came in various forms. Abalone. The locally famous matsuba crab came both raw and cooked. Luckily there was a kids menu, so this delicious food did not go to waste. I was proud of my wife for eating most of the food. Breakfast was also amazing. This was done with the other guests in a large restaurant looking out into the forest and waterfall. We ate so well that lunch was not needed, save a few snacks or treats in town–which made me feel better about the bill.

Each morning the staff would make out beds and roll them up and out them out of the way. And each evening at dinner they would roll them back out and make out beds in our room.

We visited all 7 public onsens. All were within walking distance. All of them were tattoo friendly. Overall this was an amazing time to relax, eat good food, and just do nothing. I really did feel rejuvenated being there. The town sits low in a valley with steep wooded hills rising on all sides. Despite it being a tourist town, it really felt empty, and just right after crowded Kyoto.

Osaka– 4 days $537

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Osaka. I knew it was called Japan’s Kitchen. The best thing about Osaka, for us, was that we didn’t have any must see or do destinations. We just wanted to explore the city, walk, and eat. We did just that.

We stood in a small cave like flat above a busy restaurant right in the heart of the Donotobori. The place was crowded with people, but not crowds waiting to take pictures of anything, but crowds to eat. The streets in the Donotobori were lined with vendors of all sorts. Bars. Food stands. Restaurants. Stores. Even in the drizzling rains, we braved the crowds and alluring smells to feast upon what Osaka had to offer. Boiling hot Takoyaki. Crispy Kushikatsu. Grilled Yakitori. Sautéed Gyoza. Steaming bowls of Ramen. Sizzling Okonomiyaki. Japanese omelets over teriyaki rice. All of it we ate way too much of. We’d eat and then wander around. Then eat again. All of it a few dollars a piece.

In terms of accommodations, it was like the opposite end of the spectrum from where we’d come from in Kinosaki. The flat had no windows and felt like a cave. It was old. Maybe run down. It carried with it the gritty smells of a back of house kitchen. Stacks of beer cases or kegs lined our staircase out to the streets. Cooks smoked cigarettes at the bottom of the stairwell. Well into the night we heard the loud drunken conversations of the Donotoberi passerbys. Some morning we’d exit the flat and it would be cold and rainy. Other times humid and sunny. With no windows we didn’t know what to expect.

We checked out the castle and the beautiful grounds around the castle. But the star of the show in Osaka was the food. I truly needed up in my version of food heaven. I also got the wonderful chance to go for a run in Osaka on a drizzling morning. This run was probably one of the highlights of my Japan trip. To take a run in the aftermath of the night before, with shop cleaners pressure washing the pavement, trucks reloading supplies, crews cleaning up the revelry from the night before, and then dodging the crowded groups of people on the sidewalks, it was exciting to say the least.

My youngest daughter chopped off her hair in Osaka. For the longest time She’d been asking for a haircut to her shoulders and bangs. And we finally relented. It was a great experience going to a Japanese hair salon, where all the females in my family got some sort of cut. I hung out in the waiting room for so long before I decided to take a solo walk around for food and drinks.

Tokyo– 6 days $1628

We stood in the quiet neighborhood of Asakusa. Located in the northeastern part of the Taito Ward. It’s one of the city’s oldest and most culturally rich neighborhoods. There’s a popular temple nearby called the Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple, that attracts most visitors to the neighborhood. We didn’t visit the temple, choosing instead to try and avoid the huge tourists masses if we could, especially after Kyoto. But crowds are impossible to avoid in Japan.

We stood in a small 2 story stand alone home. It felt like the home was no more than a year or two old. We appreciated how quiet our street was after a long day in the biggest city in the world. 37 million people call Tokyo home.

Most days we’d venture out to the nearest metro station and take the subways around. Some days we’d walk miles and miles to other parts of the city. Japan being as safe as it is, this was no problem at all, and by foot I think it’s the best way to get to know any city at all.

We also spent a day at Disney Sea. My wife and kids really wanted to go and check out some of the newest rides like Tangled and Frozen. The ticket prices were ultra cheap compared to Disneyland prices here in the US. 4 tickets were $179 total for us to get into the park. Disney Sea is one of the newer Disney parks. And is huge. The theme is centered on water (hence the name) with canals running through the park and the sea at the edge go the park’s fence bringing in fresh brisk wind. Best ride for me was Journey To The Center of The Earth.

The highlight of Tokyo for me was the two baseball games we attended. We went to see the Yomiuri Giants play in the Tokyo dome versus the Yokohama Baystars, and then went to see the Yakult Swallows play the Giants in their home stadium. I was instantly a Tokyo Yomiuri Giants fan, with my bias stemming from my lifelong love of the San Francisco Giants. The uniforms are similar in design and color. And the Japanese team even took their name after a visit to play the then New York Giants back in 1934.

I’d read that ball games in Japan could get energetic, but the atmosphere was absolutely electric at both stadiums. I couldn’t believe the dedication of the fans with brass bands, drums, and custom chants for each player. The outfield is where all the action was at, and during the Giants visit to the Swallows Stadium, we sat in the outfield with the hardcore fans. Can’t emphasize how much fun we had chanting with the Japanese fans. My daughters loved it too.

I tip my hat to the beer girls running up and down the aisles carrying kegs on their backs. The service was top notch. Each time a beer girl would run down to the bottom of the aisle and bow to the fans. Then she would make her march upwards, making eye contact with every fan she passed. The food at the stadium was beyond any food options that MLB teams have. Rows and rows of options from American to Japanese food were available. Most of it fresh cooked for you. The bathrooms were sparkling clean. And the stadium itself was clean. Fans do not leave food or trash behind at their seats. Choosing instead to haul trash with them when they get up to leave.

Total cost- $10,090

The cost is about average for one of my two week international trips. A lot of money, but money well spent. What is shocking to me most about travel in the last few years is the cost of airline tickets. My spending is pretty much the same annually and I get the same amount of points each year, yet my points are becoming less and less valuable to buy tickets. A round-trip flight from SFO to Tokyo on any other airline was in the range of $10k alone. Something I would never pay, as much as I can splurge and love traveling.

This is another reason why working beyond my original retirement year of 2025 is paying off. Coast FI is maybe another word for it? Except I’m still investing when I’m not saving for a vacation. Work is enjoyable for me and the wife. My kids are having fun in school. And I add buffer to my account.

As for our next trip? Ah, we’ve played around and said Oktoberfest again. That would be 3 years in a row. I can’t tell you how much I love Germany and the whole experience that, yes, as stupid as it sounds, I would go back to that amazing festival in Bavaria 3 years in a row. Maybe head down to Sicily or Sardinia while we’re on the continent. Could I afford it? Would I be willing to pay airline tickets? Maybe not. Maybe I’ll have enough points by then since I didn’t use any here. Maybe I’ll have to churn and get a new card for the sign up points.

We’ll have to see where the economy is at later in the year.

Now that it’s all over and I’m adjusted back to Pacific Standard Time, it all feels like a dream. It was so different over there compared to the US and my daily routine. I needed that shake up. That break from what’s become an auto-pilot sort of life in middle age. I decided to keep the beers to Japan and I’m back to my self disciplined sober life here in the States. Getting over the jet lag was really rough for me. We landed on a Saturday at 4pm and I slept all night Saturday, thinking I was cured. I forced myself ot stay awake all day Sunday and I went to bed Sunday night at 8pm and woke up at 10pm….never going back to sleep till Monday night. Very rough Monday on 2 hours of sleep. The older I get, the harder jet lag is on me.

A note on the stock market:

April was a crazy month. It helped being overseas when all the drama took place. I thank my lucky stars I’m diversified. Now that I’m closer to retirement (or maybe because I’m older) my risk tolerance has gone way down. As domestic stocks melted down, my international and bond allocations kept things sane. I told myself a few times, You’re on vacation stop looking at what the stock market is doing.

And now look. It’s back to pre Liberation Day values.

The economy looks to be retracting, a rash of imports potentially muddying the data. Then there’s conflicting data like adding more jobs than expected and unemployment holding at 4.2% — which I take as good news.

Nobody knows what the future holds for the market and economy. I’m not doing anything differently. I’m keeping my Boglehead approach and won’t rebalance unless things get really wacky. At this point I wouldn’t be surprised if we hit a bear market this year or hit new highs. Nothing will surprise me this year.

Alright, enough of the market. The market will do its thing whether I’m thinking or writing about it or not. I have some more daydreaming to do about Japan, things like…how do I talk my family into moving there post retirement…how hard is it for a 41 year old to learn Japanese…you know, fake problems to dwell on.

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PS. I just want to say fuck Google. I know I use their services for free. But damn, they make it hard to use now that I’ve acquired a bunch of space on their servers. In no way will I ever pay them for storage. I also had to turn down the size of the photos to upload, which is a shame. Hope they came out alright.